Gents, sorry if I am going over old ground but I am having some issues with the starter on a classic replica.
When you press the button the solenoid clicks and it is switching the current to the starter but the engine does not turn over. If you turn the engine over by rocking the bike backwards and forwards a few times the starter will fire into life and start the engine. Do you think this is starter motor or sprag (or something else)?
Any help will be appreciated.
Regards
Roy
Air cooled starter issues
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johnbirchjar
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Re: Air cooled starter issues
sounds like the starter sprag,I had a similar experience with my Classic,J.B.
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Ageing Rotarian
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Re: Air cooled starter issues
Are we talking big job/relatively simple job John? Anything to look out for when stripping the clutch (I guess you can access the sprag once the clutch is removed)?
Cheers
Cheers
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Anthony Duffield
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Re: Air cooled starter issues
Roy,
I have renewed and cleaned the sprag on my Commander a few times, I have a how to provided by RN I can send it to you if you wish, the first time is a bit fiddley and you do need some special tools.
Tony
I have renewed and cleaned the sprag on my Commander a few times, I have a how to provided by RN I can send it to you if you wish, the first time is a bit fiddley and you do need some special tools.
Tony
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Ageing Rotarian
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Re: Air cooled starter issues
Thanks Tony, PM sent with contact details.
Regards
Roy
Regards
Roy
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Ageing Rotarian
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Re: Air cooled starter issues
Thanks Tony, PM sent.
Regards
Roy
Regards
Roy
Re: Air cooled starter issues
Hey Tony,
Why not share the RN method with us all?
I would love to know.
Thanks, Jannes
Why not share the RN method with us all?
I would love to know.
Thanks, Jannes
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Ageing Rotarian
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Re: Air cooled starter issues
Hi Jannes, please find PDF attached (hopefully).
Best regards
Roy
p.s tried to attach the downloaded file but without success so copied and pasted it
Re: IP2 Sprag clutch change
• Postby Richard Negus » Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:10 pm
Tony, .
drain primary oil .
remove brake pedal.
remove clutch cable & lift plate.
remove cover.
remove chain tensioner .
remove clutch spring .
undo clutch nut & sprocket nut (both should be VERY tight!) .
pull off primary drive .
remove spiral circlip from back of clutch drum .
remove sprag - Seemples! One hour's work. BUT almost impossible without the appropriate tools .clutch spring compressor (same as Commando but with M8 x 1.25 thread up the end of the 1/2" UNF bolt .slimmed 19 A/F socket to get to the clutch nut .clutch locking tool (or use the rear brake in 5th to hold the mainshaft) .balance weight holding tool (or flywheel restrainer tool - and that means removing the water pump to get to the flywheel) .30 A/F socket and breaker bar for the eccentric shaft nut Two hours to clean/inspect/re-assemble in reverse order, with the tools. 100 ft.lbs clutch nut, 150 ecc. shaft nut, both with Loctite 270. 250 cc cheap SAE 5W-30 Without the tools, how close are you to A&E?
Slower, slower! Now the fear of even more points overcomes the thrill of speed.
Best regards
Roy
p.s tried to attach the downloaded file but without success so copied and pasted it
Re: IP2 Sprag clutch change
• Postby Richard Negus » Mon Mar 31, 2014 6:10 pm
Tony, .
drain primary oil .
remove brake pedal.
remove clutch cable & lift plate.
remove cover.
remove chain tensioner .
remove clutch spring .
undo clutch nut & sprocket nut (both should be VERY tight!) .
pull off primary drive .
remove spiral circlip from back of clutch drum .
remove sprag - Seemples! One hour's work. BUT almost impossible without the appropriate tools .clutch spring compressor (same as Commando but with M8 x 1.25 thread up the end of the 1/2" UNF bolt .slimmed 19 A/F socket to get to the clutch nut .clutch locking tool (or use the rear brake in 5th to hold the mainshaft) .balance weight holding tool (or flywheel restrainer tool - and that means removing the water pump to get to the flywheel) .30 A/F socket and breaker bar for the eccentric shaft nut Two hours to clean/inspect/re-assemble in reverse order, with the tools. 100 ft.lbs clutch nut, 150 ecc. shaft nut, both with Loctite 270. 250 cc cheap SAE 5W-30 Without the tools, how close are you to A&E?
Slower, slower! Now the fear of even more points overcomes the thrill of speed.
Re: Air cooled starter issues
Thanks Roy!! Very helpfull!!
Jannes
Jannes
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Ageing Rotarian
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Re: Air cooled starter issues
Right then gents, clutch removed as per Richards instructions and immediately felt that the sprag clutch was ok.
Connected the battery pushed the starter, solenoid clicked but starter did not move.
I had been able to start the bike by placing the bike in first, pressing the starter and flicking the back wheel which prompted the starter into life. Tried to replicate this by pressing the starter and rotating the starter pinion, starter then rotated meaning the solenoid is operating correctly but the speed of the motor varied and it sounded as rough as a bears whatsit!
It has got to be a dodgy starter motor which will mean an engine out I presume? Any tips or tricks/does and don’ts with regards to engine removal or is it read the manual and crack on?
Thanks for any suggestions
Regards
Roy
Connected the battery pushed the starter, solenoid clicked but starter did not move.
I had been able to start the bike by placing the bike in first, pressing the starter and flicking the back wheel which prompted the starter into life. Tried to replicate this by pressing the starter and rotating the starter pinion, starter then rotated meaning the solenoid is operating correctly but the speed of the motor varied and it sounded as rough as a bears whatsit!
It has got to be a dodgy starter motor which will mean an engine out I presume? Any tips or tricks/does and don’ts with regards to engine removal or is it read the manual and crack on?
Thanks for any suggestions
Regards
Roy
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Anthony Duffield
- Site Admin
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- Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:13 am
Re: Air cooled starter issues
Roy,
Engine out to get to the starter, I have no experience of air cooled just my Commander, a tip, when you are ready to remove the engine from the gearbox replace two of the Allen cap screws with two long studs not more than say 4 cm, the spigot on the gearbox is small without the studs the engine comes off the spigot with a rush, the studs help to bring the engine out under control.
If the starter did work with first some movement it does not sound terminal, perhaps new bearings, brushes and a good clean, polish the com and test it before you reassemble, I learnt the hard way and had to take the engine back out again.
Tony
Engine out to get to the starter, I have no experience of air cooled just my Commander, a tip, when you are ready to remove the engine from the gearbox replace two of the Allen cap screws with two long studs not more than say 4 cm, the spigot on the gearbox is small without the studs the engine comes off the spigot with a rush, the studs help to bring the engine out under control.
If the starter did work with first some movement it does not sound terminal, perhaps new bearings, brushes and a good clean, polish the com and test it before you reassemble, I learnt the hard way and had to take the engine back out again.
Tony