Thanks for recent help. I have now struck a new problem regarding the wiring diagram. The Norton diagram shows the E.I.U. has a red '12V to ignition unit relay'. This is on the left hand side of this unit but there is no red on my StartRight E.I.U. Other colours are correct.
Then more confusion, the W. Diagram then shows a red coming from the relay to the right hand side of the E.I.U. I cannot believe the red simply straight through the E.I.U.?
Is there a paddock stand that can be used with the IP2?
Should the front brake master cylinder have a brake switch?
I would like to get rid of the silencers. Can anyone suggest suitable replacements but not too loud please.
Does the club have a FAQs on these topics?
Thanks Roger
Electronic Ignition Unit E.I.U.
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- Richard Negus
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Re: Electronic Ignition Unit E.I.U.
Hi Roger,
The only query I can answer is the front brake switch.
It's a hydraulic switch that is, or should be, on a junction block bolted the the bottom yoke and cunningly hidden between the two hoses going to the brake calipers.
The original Brembo items are now all 30 or more years old. There's a rubber disc inside that compresses with increasing hydraulic pressure and allows the contacts to close. The rubber goes harder with age and it needs an increasing gorilla grip to make it work. The blade contacts on the outside of the switch are also subject to corrosion.
A better switch is one made for modern KTM machines. It has the same M10 x 1.0 thread and a bonus is that it has flying lead that keeps the electrical connection away from the mucky area.
If you don't have the junction block, a better braking solution is to use a Kawasaki KLE650 cylinder. A 14 mm bore gives better braking for less squeeze and it has a typical Japanese micro-switch for the brake. It also has an adjustable lever position. You can achieve a two-finger squealy front tyre for those "Oh Pooh" moments.
R
The only query I can answer is the front brake switch.
It's a hydraulic switch that is, or should be, on a junction block bolted the the bottom yoke and cunningly hidden between the two hoses going to the brake calipers.
The original Brembo items are now all 30 or more years old. There's a rubber disc inside that compresses with increasing hydraulic pressure and allows the contacts to close. The rubber goes harder with age and it needs an increasing gorilla grip to make it work. The blade contacts on the outside of the switch are also subject to corrosion.
A better switch is one made for modern KTM machines. It has the same M10 x 1.0 thread and a bonus is that it has flying lead that keeps the electrical connection away from the mucky area.
If you don't have the junction block, a better braking solution is to use a Kawasaki KLE650 cylinder. A 14 mm bore gives better braking for less squeeze and it has a typical Japanese micro-switch for the brake. It also has an adjustable lever position. You can achieve a two-finger squealy front tyre for those "Oh Pooh" moments.
R
Just a bike-less old fogey now. Boo-hoo!
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Re: Electronic Ignition Unit E.I.U.
Hi Roger,
Richard is correct about the front brake switch,the KTM one fits and works just fine,I fitted one to my Classic at least 15 years ago(once again "Keith" has all the info re:part No ect )J.B.
Richard is correct about the front brake switch,the KTM one fits and works just fine,I fitted one to my Classic at least 15 years ago(once again "Keith" has all the info re:part No ect )J.B.