F1 Gearbox breather

[Interpol2471]

Hi All,After a spirited ride at the weekend I had gearbox oil drip onto my exhaust from the gearbox breather pipe.Looking at the parts book this appears to have a long three part tube device but I only have a short thin pipe which directs the oil onto the exhaust what is correct please or what am I missing?Cant believe the correct design is as I have causing oil to run onto the hot exhaust it frightening the wotsits out of me seeing all of that smoke.Has anyone worked a longer breather out or modified this in the past?Also what oil do people use 10W40 and is the 0.95L as in the manual correct?

[Interpol2471]

Found a big joining piece hiding around the frame near the primary case breather problem solved. It had fallen apart I guess over time and then sat hidden.I also understand that the gearbox oil was recommended to be slightly reduced by Graham W. so once fit and well I will sort all of this out Paul

[Wayne]

Hi Paulthat's correct the oil level in the manual is in correct. F1 just had a very short breather tube, both my f1 sports have a breather tube right to the back of the bike.Even with the lowered oil level f1 gear boxes blow oil if ridden hard, my nrs gear box has a deflector plate inside the gear box the production boxes don't have.John Williams uses a small catchment bottle.Regards Wayne

[Wayne]

900cc is what I usealso if you have not un don the drain bolt or cant undo the drain boilt I use a open ended crow foot on a 3/8 ratchet to crack and final tighten. I use a snap on 4 way open ended spanner to then undo and reinstall the drain plg.The drain plug has a ally washer that often stays with the gearbox when you undo it.I use a little tray about 15mm high overhaning the collector box. the end that hangs over has a large hole to allow the oil to drain into a normal oil pan underneath the collector.while I am at it a 16mm brittol ring spanner is best for the spark plugs, ring spanner not a combination wrench.on gear box oil I use a 20/40 or 20/50 remember this is not a commander its a yam box designed to run on this oil. The F1 has a higher lift on the clutch so you don't get the same problems.If your primary oil is grainy you cush drive is wearing and its the same but different on a f1Hope this helps Wayne

[Interpol2471]

Thanks Wayne mine has a breather out of the back it was just not connected up and hanging hidden by the frame rail and primary breather pipe.I will service this as soon as feeling better as well as clutch.F1 only has 2500 miles on it so I hope nothing is too worn yet....

[Wayne]

Hi paulThe f1 had two vacume pipes either side of the engine, they air by the air filter, mine perished wher they come off the rotor housing but you could not see it. This let air in affecting the idle. I caped the hose stup off with high temp silocon blanking caps and then had to reduce the tick over. In my experance age. Is affecting some of the rubber compnants, fork seals are especialy prone to been stood and started leaking on my f1 sport with low milage once i started using it.If you are. Not awair the micr switch on the carbs is one of the worst jobs on a f1 to get right. Even if you set it on the bench unless you are verry carful it gets knoked reefiting it. Another issue with stood f1s is the non return valve in the gravity feed from the seconary tank under the seat. To test with the engine not running and ignition on open the throttle, the petrol pump should stop. If the petrol pump keeps ticking over its either the nrv or carb float seats. Locate the bulge in the fule line wher the tool kit goes and squiees the tube shut and repeat the test, if the petrol pump stil carrys on runing petrol will appear on the collector box as the carb breather goes to the oil. Pump chamber. I do this test every year along with checking the micro switch operates the fuel diverter valve.Testing the fuel diverter valve is easy turn the ignition on and the engine kill on but dont start the engine. Liten to the petrol takn and after a very short time you can hear petrol runing back to the main tank from the little tank. Open the throttle very slowly and you will hear the solonoid click and petroll will or should stop returing to the tank. The solonoid should click on hardly moving the throtttle, there is a setting i think its 2 to 3 mm of the throtttle moving of the stop on the right hand carb, check this figure with richard or graham. To check i remove the right hand fan to give good accsess.Hope this helps wayne.

[Wayne]

Impotant from the above squeze the petrol pipe an inch below the bulge in the petrol pipe, the bulge is the nrv which can get grunge on it. Regards wayne.