Rotten Commander

Post by **kanonkopdrinker** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 8:56 am

Hello David,Please post this on the Forum for me would you. Just a quick word of warning to Commander owners out there.I recently purchased a high mileage Commander that has been used all year round. The bike had been dropped and the engine wasn't starting so it was considerably cheaper than I had seen a Commander for sale before.Not fazed by said bodywork damage or the prospect of large engine bills I bought the bike.Upon removal of the bodywork I find that the chassis over the rear wheel is completely rotten.I mean like Austin Maxi rotten.It would be well worth you high mileage winter wankelers out here checking under that rear bodywork before your pillion disappears in a cloud of rust after that hump back bridge !Seriously though this was so bad I regard it a dangerous, the paint/plastic coating whatever it is just made matters worse by trapping the water and encouraging the oxidation, the bodywork prevented air from circulating and drying it out - never stood a chance.Happy wankeling ! Ian "Aldo" AldridgeDerby.

BANJOMAN · Post by **BANJOMAN** » Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:00 pm

Ian \r Sounds familiar ! \r I took the panniers off my Commander (105K miles) and YES - MUCHO RUSTINESS! Going to have to practice my welding skills.\rMay be even worth low mileage commander owners cheching this out - JUST IN CASE! It only takes a short while to get the whole lot off.\r :(\rWas your bike Phil The Spills? Sounds like it to me.

BANJOMAN · Post by **BANJOMAN** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:57 pm

Back end now rebuilt using 3mm mild steel plate and painted. Also planning to cover with bitumen especially around the oil tank whcih was also rotten through. Oil tank did seem sound until I scraped some paint off!! :? Rebuild progressing so 4166 may be back onthe road this year all being well!

gripper · Post by **gripper** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 10:51 pm

Hi Folks, I'm new to this forum malarkey anyway here goes. I have had an IP 2 for about 4 years and recently added a Commander to the stable. The IP2 is sound, but funny old thing, the Commander is pretty rusty over the top of the rear shocks and has been beefed up by a previous owner including some isopon! Is it feasible to repair the back mudguard by just cutting it off and replacing it with a similar shaped fabrication in situ, or does this repair warrant an engine out strip? I was toying with the idea of the replacement being in stainless steel but I have not investigated the issue of welding stainless to mild steel. Any advice would be greatfully recieved. Interestingly every screw on the IP2 is Stainless and nearly every screw on the Commander is not and hence rotten.Dave Evans

rustynuts · Post by **rustynuts** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:05 am

No, you realy don't want to try welding stainless to mild steel. It is quite feasible to weld a repair section in without removing the engine. Just make sure you remove everything from the frame within a fair distance of the weld; heat can travel quite a distance throgh the metal. Clean the metal well at the joint to ensure you get a nice clean weld. And if you are going to weld electrically, make sure you disconnect all electronic modules which may become frazzled by stray currents.

BANJOMAN · Post by **BANJOMAN** » Sat Mar 14, 2009 10:39 am

As detailed in previous reply I rebuilt my back end with 3mm mild steel. Took a while but end result aint too bad. Welding a bit rough in places due to limited access for the tip but it won't be seen. Do check your oil tank though!! As said mine looked okay until I scraped some paint off. I lefta good part of the existing curved mudguard in place as it was more 'sound' metal. If you want I can send a photo or two as bike is still awaiting engine and other bits from the boys at Startright. Let me know - e mail is thetods@btinternet.comStuartCaithness

gripper · Post by **gripper** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:21 pm

My Commander is back on the road after some rear end surgery. It would appear that there is no paint in the gap between the inner mudguard and the outer box fabrication under the seat. (where the top damper mounts are attached) I have spent some considerable time getting some paint in there and have followed that with a liberal dose of waxoil. The other area to watch out for is the forward end of the rear mudguard. There is a step formed by the rubber mudflap and this fills with road dirt and stays damp until it's rotted through the back of the oil tank. If you clean no other part of your commander, get the hose pipe on that bit. You may consider fitting the flap on the forward side of the mudguard to eliminate the step or even shaving a chamfer on the flap to avoid the build up of crud.

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