My just bought Classic has run for the last time in 2017, so has to be brought back to live again. My plan is to remove the plugs and squirt a mixture of dieselfuel and silkolene Comp 2 oil in the plugholes. And check that all the 3 sides of both rotors are squirted upon...Turning of the engine by hand.
After that engaging the startermotor with both plugs still removed and pulling the oilpump cable to full opening. This should get the engine nicely lubed up i think? Now, the plugs back in and fire the engine up.
Good plan, or should i do it in another/better way? Graham, Richard?
Thanks, Jannes
Starting up procedure
- Richard Negus
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Re: Starting up procedure
Hi Assen,
That's good plan BUT, before you do anything, take out the air filter elements and see whether they are perished from age and filter oil.
If they are, it's possible to suck bits of plastic into the engine as you attempt to start it.
Aerosol filter oils have an evaporating solvent, some of which can destroy the foam.
You may also want to check the oil in the carburettor dash pots - should be SAE 40.
Rgds,
R.
That's good plan BUT, before you do anything, take out the air filter elements and see whether they are perished from age and filter oil.
If they are, it's possible to suck bits of plastic into the engine as you attempt to start it.
Aerosol filter oils have an evaporating solvent, some of which can destroy the foam.
You may also want to check the oil in the carburettor dash pots - should be SAE 40.
Rgds,
R.
Just a bike-less old fogey now. Boo-hoo!
Re: Starting up procedure
Thanks Richard! I will follow your advice! Your advice on the airfilter is spot on. My Suzuki GS750 from 1977 (twin discs/wirewheels) had exactly the problem with the airfilter you've mentioned. The filter was totaly crumbled. Luckily no engineproblems occured.
Thanks, Jannes
Thanks, Jannes
Re: Starting up procedure
I've read somewhere (Andy Watts?) that pulling the oilpumpcable from a Norton up to maximum with an idling engine doesn't make the pump deliver more lube?
The rearwheel/gearbox must turn for the pump to work?
A lecture in oilpumpworkings is welcome....
Jannes
The rearwheel/gearbox must turn for the pump to work?
A lecture in oilpumpworkings is welcome....
Jannes
- Richard Negus
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- Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 5:11 pm
- Location: Wilds of Lincolnshire
Re: Starting up procedure
Hi Jannes,
With the engine running, the only time the oil pump doesn't turn (IP2/Classic/Commander) is when the bike is stationary, gear engaged, and clutch lifted.
That's because the pump is driven by the end of the gearbox input shaft.
I don't believe any damage can occur during those brief moments when you're waiting at traffic lights, say, gear engaged and clutch lifted.
The F1/F1 Sport is different as the oil pump is driven all the time the engine is running, stationary or not.
R.
With the engine running, the only time the oil pump doesn't turn (IP2/Classic/Commander) is when the bike is stationary, gear engaged, and clutch lifted.
That's because the pump is driven by the end of the gearbox input shaft.
I don't believe any damage can occur during those brief moments when you're waiting at traffic lights, say, gear engaged and clutch lifted.
The F1/F1 Sport is different as the oil pump is driven all the time the engine is running, stationary or not.
R.
Just a bike-less old fogey now. Boo-hoo!
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Re: Starting up procedure
Now here's a thing ,I was lead to believe (all those years ago)that the reason my Classic had a knackered engine after only 650 miles , was my habit of starting the old girl up and leaving her on fast idle while putting all my riding kit on,(to warm up the engine,)'cos she was an absolute pig to ride until at least 100c (until I sorted out the idle rod )and 'cos the bike was not in gear the pump was not lubricating the engine,hence the knackering engine ,(which made sence to me at the time,)and I have adhered to that principle ever since.Ah well,I don't suppose I did the old girl any harm ,J.B.