Help with Classic gas tank

[Jeff mcCoy]

One of my first tasks is to drain the 20 year old fuel from my tank and take a look inside. I am unable to open the gas cap. Seems like a simple thing, but it will not budge. So now the stupid questions. Which way does the Key turn? Can someone with a Classic take a picture of the gas cap open so I can see what it looks like on the underside of the cap? I have tried to lubricate the lock, warm up with a heat gun to no avail. I may have to drill out the lock to get a grasp on pulling the whole flange.Thanks in advance,Jeff

[Interpol2471]

Hi Jeff the locks turns counter clockwise. I would keep lubricating and wiggling to start with. I will post a picture of the internal mechanism later today unless someone beats me to it.Remember that new caps are available but petrol tanks and ally and very rare if you damage that.Paul

[Jeff mcCoy]

Thanks for that advise. I am going to have another key made before I make another attempt, I have wiggled that much. Will sit tight to see pics of cap.Jeff

[Interpol2471]

Hope this is clear or comes out as it seems I cannot uploads into the gallery anymore

[Interpol2471]

yes it does come out The white plastic part is the turning part that locks.

[Jeff mcCoy]

Got the picture, came through perfectly. The next attack will be to take the peacock off, drain the old fuel, tip the tank upside down with penetrating oil. Hopefully that and possibly some heat will get it to turn and unlock. Keep you posted.Jeff

[johnbirchjar]

Hi guys,same theem(sort of )removing the screws that hold the filler cap housing,any tips?Iv'e tried,(oh how Iv'e tried,)I think the b*****d's must be welded in ,rgds,J.B.

[Jeff mcCoy]

I took my screws out. They seem to have a sealant on them that made them harder to turn. Get a proper fitting screw driver, try some heat from a hair dryer, and they should back out.Jeff

[Richard Negus]

Jeff,Don't do it! There's a copper water drain pipe brazed to the filler neck and trapped by an olive in a screwed fitting in the bottom of the tank. Removing the neck destroys the drain pipe. - and the filler neck/drain pipe assembly is no longer available as a spare part. A new filler cap, however, is available from Andover Norton.Better, if you can't release the lock mechanism, is to destroy it with a 'universal key' in the form of a big flat bladed screwdriver.R.

[Richard Negus]

Edit: for 'Jeff', read 'John'.

[Interpol2471]

catch up old boy

[Jeff mcCoy]

Good to know. I have been trying to work carefully with this problem, was not aware the flange would not come off. Will put the screws back in before I twist on the gas cap. Thanks for the warning. Jeff

[johnbirchjar]

Surely with all the screws out the whole lot should come out as a one piece?and I did try wth a tight fitting screw driver bit,in an air gun (the sort that tyre fitters use)all to no avail,and listening to Richard,"Warming things up a bit" is a no no,rgds,J.B.

[Jeff mcCoy]

I have the gas cap off using the big screwdriver method. Not a pretty sight. I think something died in there. If I remove the tube and nut on the bottom side of the tank, will that not release the copper tube and allow me to remove the flange?Jeff

[Richard Negus]

Jeff,'Fraid not- that's a compression fitting with a brass olive crimped onto the copper pipe, and probably assembled with Loctite. If you're really lucky after undoing the lower nut, you may be able to persuade the olive off the pipe.The copper pipe has a single spiral formed in it to allow for expansion, but which also allows you to pull it through the gland nut, cut off the original olive, and re-assemble with a new one.With the filler neck out, you could of course replace the copper pipe with a new one.When re-assembling, use plenty epoxy resin on the edges of the silver paint to seal it and stop fuel vapour getting underneath and bubbling the visible paint.R.

[Richard Negus]

Classic filler neck.jpg

[Interpol2471]

Now I am going to have to go and look at mine I have never noticed that Must be well out of the way of polish but mind you my petrol cap is fine and not stuck.

[Jeff mcCoy]

This clears things up perfectly. I can worry the olive off, or cut it off to remove. I have a new cap on order. It does not look like the "Norton" decals are available, I would like to be able to repaint the tank one day. Are there any available from other than Norton Andover?Jeff

[Richard Negus]

Part number is 92-0978; ANIL had more than 10 in stock early February; not the world's most popular rotary item.It's the same style as Commando item 06-4881, but about 25% smaller.R.

[Interpol2471]

Found it, now I know why I never noticed it Jeff I would give the tank a good clean and leave well alone for now and get the bike reliable and running and leave the tank for the future. If the tank inside is cruddy start on the carbs and every joint o ring that then works its way to the engine also.Make sure you also lubricate and turn the rotors to make sure they are free and not sticking if not stripping the housings.Good luck.

[Richard Negus]

Paul,I second all that, PLUS, fit a decent fuel filter.R.

[Jeff mcCoy]

I need to learn how to post pictures, words do not describe what the inside of the tank looks like. Probably 3/8 of an inch thick of stuff. End plates are off, going out for machining and Molly coat reconditioning. Will post pictures of the bike in its present condition, very original with 4000 miles on it, when I can.Jeff

[Interpol2471]

Jeff under the the main message body there is a section to add a 'Filename' browse your computer and then add from there.The file must be less than 1MB and it will add straight onto the thread as myself and Richard have done.I had a similar issue with a petrol tank on a BSA I restored for someone but with a tank cleaning product set and some hard work it came good.Look forward to the pictures.

[Jeff mcCoy]

Thanks for the filename info. I was looking up top for it. Here goes.

[Richard Negus]

YUK!That looks like vintage resin tank sealant (useless on an alloy tank, unless it had a pinhole leak).Difficult to remove without damaging the paint. I think you really have to take the filler neck out.Put in a handful of granite chippings and a pint of gasoline or kerosene, fit a blank disc in place of the neck, and shake it about for a day or so.Acetone or thinners may be more effective, but also much more risky, both to you and the paint.Good luck.R.

[Jeff mcCoy]

I still think something died in there. I have a machine patterned after a rotary mold machine to tumble tanks. I use roofing nails and various liquids to remove deposits. My big fear, as you pointed out is the finish on the tank. Decals do not seem to be available for repaint.Jeff

[Richard Negus]

I looked in my spares stock and only found Commando ones. With one of those, or even a photo, any decal shop should be able to make a smaller version for you.

[johnbirchjar]

Try Andover Norton, I bought some decals from them about 2 weeks ago,( with the notion of having the tank resprayed,as the fairing has already had a makeover)but as I reported earlier,failed to remove the screws,and as luck would have it,just as well ,so I have decided to "Let well alone"(The tank isn't that bad)so if by some quirk of fate I happened to have bought the last two decals from A/N,let me know and perhaps I can be of some assistance ,rgds,J.B.

[Interpol2471]

MM yes that looks similar to what I had with the BSA I used the well advertised three stage cleaning and protection solution with granite chips as Richard suggested and that worked really well for me.

[Jeff mcCoy]

Norton Rotary.jpg

Will be tackling the "stuff" in the gas tank this weekend. I hold out great hope that things will come out fine. Here is a picture of the bike as of now.Let you know how things look on Monday.Jeff