F1 Question. Oil and brake master cylinder

[springbok160]

1. Having had the F1 for a couple of years I am now running out of Rotella X. However i would like to replace it with a cleaner running oil. Can i use a two stroke synthetic based oil ??2. Both my brake master cylinder and clutch ones are obviously weeping a bit because they have both corroded the paint on the outside. I have tried repainting these things on a Commando and it doesn't work. My question is what are they off, as they look quite familular ?? thanks

[Richard Negus]

Hi Springbok,A change to a synthetic two stroke oil will be beneficial; less smoke, better smell, and better lubrication. You should use a pre-mix type of oil rather than injector. Preferred brands are Silkolene Comp 2 Premix, aka Classic 2T, and Bardahl KGR. Other similar brands will probably work just as well, but I have no first-hand experience. Mineral and synthetic oils do not mix so drain the tank before filling with new; that in the oil pipes doesn't matter as it will work its way through eventually.Both master cylinders are Yamaha, with the logo machined off the caps. Brake side comes from various models of 1988 era, but the clutch side is from FZ750 and has a little 'nib' to locate the l/h switch. Without it, the switch can rotate on the bar when you operate the choke.

[springbok160]

Thank you Richard. As you know my previous owner tried to reduce smoking by adjusting the oil feed, and you had to rebuild my engine for me !While you are there, is there a service schedule in print for the F1, there have not been many miles done since the rebuild but its been a few years. I was thinking of gear-box oils, filters etc.Cheers Hans Taylor

[Richard Negus]

Hi Hans,For a low-mileage machine, not much to do really. The oils will last almost indefinitely, although you might want to change brake fluids every 2 - 3 years for peace of mind.; anti-freeze too. I've seen unused engines, with old antifreeze, where corrosion of the engine castings has started, requiring rectification by machining. Suck eggs time - antifreeze doesn't just stop the coolant freezing, it has anti-corrosive properties particularly relevant for aluminium engines.The main trouble spot these days is the fuel, and what it leaves behind in the carburettors when it evaporates. Mikuni carbs on the F1 have a series of tiny drill-ways that can become blocked with residue and very difficult to clean. One pair were so badly blocked after years of storage that neither solvents nor ultrasonic cleaning worked and they had to be replaced. Top quality fuel (not supermarket cat-wee) and use may be the answer to that, or find some 100LL avgas from your local airfield.Our friends at Andover have a new print run of the F1 Owners Manual, part number 00-4239, at £12.50.In the meantime, here's the page from my own.

F1 Maintenance.jpg

[rustynuts]

Hi Hans,Motts in Baingstoke sell Silkoene Classic 2T and taking postage into consideration is cheaper than buying online.Rob

[springbok160]

Hello Richard, (Tried sending e mail but not sure if it ever went !?!) I have started using the F1 again with the onset of fine weather, and it was the first of my bikes to be awarded an Mot this year ! Apart from a few warm up miles, its first major outing was to Rockingham, for a day with Superbike School. Having learnt how to ride the thing properly ( classic bike rider ! ) we both had great fun, and I now feel more at home on it. One thing I would like to do, and that is lower the footrests by 1" to better accommodate my gangling legs ! I have looked at the mounting plates, and the only solution I can see is to have a pair remade with slots to adjust the plates up or down on the mounting bolts. What do you think ? However, all is not well, as when returning from the Solent branch weekend, at a nearby village, F1Fi ground to a halt, spluttered and coughed a couple of times, refused to start and had to be taken home on a trailer ! Whilst waiting for a taxi, I'm sure I heard her sighing, just a faint moan coming from within . It really sounded quite pitiful, and I was nearly brought to consoling her despite being very angry ! Anyway, having spent some time testing various connections I believe that the fuel pump is U/S. I tried hard wiring it to the battery and nothing happened, and no sign of ticking when ignition is turned on. Engine still turns over OK and no horrible noises. Before I jump in and order a new one, is there anything else that I should be looking at ? For instance does it matter how its mounted, as I had to turn it when accommodating your battery conversion ? Cheers and hope all's well with you.Hans

[gripper]

If your fuel pump is wired anything like a Honda NTV 650 one, it may not pump until the engine is cranking. Just putting power across it will not make it work until it gets a feed from the cranking engine. So don't commit it to the bin until you've tested it. Take the pipe off, route it to a catch tank and crank the engine, see what happens. My Sons Honda one was U/S but it had done 56,000 miles. A new set of points in the pump (£21 ebay) pump fixed. I don't suppose there is an F1 with 56,000 miles on it.

[springbok160]

Thank you all, it was fixed a while back and is going fine. For the record, it was the points, how strange !!