IP2 wiggle on

[Interpol2471]

Hi just recently on some of the longer runs in bad weather I have noticed the the front end appears a bit light / vague as if the head bearings are loose and the front end almost causes a slight weave. I have checked the tyres and head bearings and all feels ok, the head bearings do feel loose and turn freely but there is no play so cant see this being an issue. Side winds and also changes in road surface can also be an issue and cause tracking, I know my rear shocks are old now and want changing but any ideas prior to me wizzing off and buying some Ikons? Also has anyone found an ideal tyre pressure when loaded with panniers etc?Best Regards Paul

[Dell Boy]

My Interpol used to weave at speed.I had extensive stainless steel bracketry & a tow hitch for a trailer hanging off the back so I put it down to that.I also seem to remember it didn`t like any tyres but Pirelli Phantoms & pressures had to be maintained at 36 or it got worse.Derek F.

[Richard Negus]

Paul,I usually find it's the tyres causing the weave, even when you think there's thousands left on them. Almost anything new will improve it, Avon RoadRiders seem particularly good and are less expensive than Bridgestone, for example. I've no idea how long they last in comparison though.R.

[Interpol2471]

Thanks Richard do you know I was looking at the rear tyre earlier and wondering as I have started to get a flat patch from motorway miles riding.Roadriders it is then, did you find the best sizes in the end?Paul

[gripper]

I run Avon Roadriders and they are good enough for me but beware the size of the front tyre. I struggled to get the tyre to pop up onto the bead and stay there. I even scraped the powder coating off. No probs on the rear but the fron sized tyres are small in diameter.

[Richard Negus]

Roadriders it is then, did you find the best sizes in the end?Paul

I've fitted 100/90 + 130/70 to a Commander (plus lowered the front by 20mm) and thought how different it felt to the usual standard.Just for the experience, I've fitted 110/80 + 130/70 to my fake Classic. The front seems ok, but the rear looks very rounded on such a narrow rim; the overall result seems to handle well although I've only done just over 500 miles so far.

[Richard Negus]

I run Avon Roadriders and they are good enough for me but beware the size of the front tyre. I struggled to get the tyre to pop up onto the bead and stay there. I even scraped the powder coating off. No probs on the rear but the fron sized tyres are small in diameter.

I had exactly the same with the wheels on 3006. Even though the original silver coating was still good, they neede to be stain black to suit the bike's style. The rear Roadrider went on the rim ok, but the front took a lot of 'persuading' with lube, mallet and excess pressure before it seated properly.By the way, someone ( ) showed me his IP2 with tubeless tyres fitted - and no tubes. Sounded a bit precarious to me, but has anyone else tried the same and survived? R.

[Interpol2471]

That's funny I have had Tubeless Tyres on my IP2 for some while now, I wonder who the other person was

[Richard Negus]

I think he's got a Cub that he keeps just for polishing.

[Interpol2471]

have to have some reliable transport

[bodgerbloke52]

I found that a Michlin radial on the front of the Commander worked wonders.Ran a 76 Guzzi with Lester cast ally tubed type wheels on tubeless Bridgstones for yonks. The small ridge on tubeless spec wheels is a DOT safety requirement to keep the tyre in place in the event of a blow out. It has nothing to do with sealing tubeless tyres. A tubed spec rim has no such ridge.Tubeless tyres are such a blessing if they puncture as they are so easy to plug in minutes at the side of the road.Roger

[Interpol2471]

Should I be worried about this as I have ordered some Avons and could have tubes fitted when they are replaced?

[bodgerbloke52]

As I see it, the infinitesimal risk of losing control after a sudden blow out with tubeless tyres on tube type rims is the same as running tubes in the same rims. Both can fall into the well of the rim.When was the last time you had a side wall blow out without warning? It can happen with very old tyres with rotted walls but even then the odds are that the bulge will be felt before it blows. Another factor with running tubeless is that there is no possibility of the tubes valve pulling out due to tyre creep. I had it happen twice back in the low pressure tyre days.Certainly if you are more comfortable with tubes fitted, I understand that perfectly.Roger

[Interpol2471]

Thanks Roger I think I agree with you as I am happier running the tyres as tubeless as my biggest near experience with tyres was with a tubed tyre and a puncture.CheersPaul

[gripper]

If you did get a flat on the front with a Roadrider fitted and the tyre dropped into the well, you would need a serious compressor to get it back up on the bead seat. I think the tyre fitter used in excess of 100psi to get mine on the seat. If I had a lathe big enough I would skim the bead seat down by about 1mm ( diameter) but leave a ridge to suit the tubeless method. No tube will reduce unsprung weight and reduce the centrifugal effect of the front wheel in particular.Anybody got ready access to a lathe that will take an 18" wheel?

[bodgerbloke52]

I carry a tyre plugger kit for my tubeless bikes, the kit comes with CO2 cartridges.My Motorhome has huge tubeless Michlins, the plugger kit has special long plugs for truck tyres. I carry a large CO2 tank as standard equipment.Roger

[johnbirchjar]

The variuos merrits of tubed verses tubeless begs the question, why did my Classic come from the factory fitted with tubeless tyres but with tubes in!? and also isn't there a good chance that the orriginal wheels fitted to the aircooled bikes would be porous by now? J.B.

[gripper]

As I see it, Classic and IP2 wheels lack the small lip on the inner edge of the bead seat required for the correct (?) fitting of tubeless tyres. you could fit tubeless tyres with tubes or tubless tyres without tubes. I doubt the rims would be porous. The lip is to stop the tyre slipping into the well if you get a flat. But that is what happens with a tubed tyre on a normal rim when you get a flat. I read a Honda transalp forum where some guy had sealed his spoke holes with silicon and fitted tubeless tyres. Worked for a bit apparently.

[Richard Negus]

I'm not sure what that lip is supposed to do - perhaps hold the bead on the seat a little longer when you get a flat so, hopefully, you can ride to a standstill and have a degree of control. I know only too well what happens when you get a sudden front puncture with an old-fashioned wire spoke wheel; terminal wobble and gravel rash.I haven't had such an event with a tubeless front tyre so I don't know what happens. Perhaps someone else should carry out such an experiment for our enlightenment?The Grimeca wheels on IP2 and Classic are not machined around the bead seat and well; mis-match with the two halves of the die often mean there are two steps around the seat diameter, a source for potential air leaks.My logic says use a tube on such wheels, no matter what type of tyre, but then I don't eat worms either and I'm told they are very nutritious - ask the birds.Me, prejudiced? Never!R.

[Interpol2471]

Well all I know is I have had the tubeless tyres on my rims now for a number of years and I am ready for a new set and I have had no problems at all.. touch wood In fact I have had to check these less than my tubed tyre bikes ???

[Dell Boy]

Last week I fitted a SHINKO 10SR712F 100/90 H18 front tyre to the Red Commander & I am very pleased with its performance & handleing. Easy to fit as well.It is a very "triangular" profile & I can take my hands off the bars at any speed without the front wheel shaking. This is the first time I have ever been able to do this.I covered 750 miles over the last weekend attending the NORTON INTERNATIONAL RALLY in Skipton in the Yorkshire Dales some of the time in horrendous rain without a moments concern.The front coil kept shorting out due to the lorry spray on the A.1. going up there so a nightmare/dodgy ride on Friday with the engine cutting in & out for about 150 miles.Then this morning the new batteries died when I hit the starter button.Diagnoses is the starter motor is failing plus the water pump has now started leaking.It never rains but it pours!!!!Derek F.

[Dell Boy]

P.S Shinko front tyre cost £49.95.Derek F.

[bodgerbloke52]

Most interesting about your experience with the Shinko. I have read similar good reports on the make over here. The front end shake on my Commander drove me nuts. Although Verboten over your side the Michelin radial cured the issue and it is permissible over here. Intersting comparing tyre prices that you blokes have to pay compared with us. The Michelin is $110 (65 quid) The Shinko is $70 (43) In each case, no freight or tax to pay.Roger

[johnbirchjar]

The problems you guys have with water pumps buy an air cooled by the way, did the waterproofing spray fix your h.t. lead problem? I bumped into Bazz,Mal,Tim & Alan T at Cressing Temple on Sunday,so it seems we all arived back safely in Essex on Monday,good,ride safe,J.B.