Rotary Owners' Club

IP2's never had Lucas coils as they were all originally CDI ignition. Lucas coils came in with the Classic. I believe genuine Lucas coils haven't been made for a long time, although you can buy replica coils in Lucas-style packaging, but possibly made somewhere in the East. You can buy good quality ...

'Morning, You're talking about the big capacitor by the battery? If so, it's nothing to do with the ignition system but was fitted to IP2 machines with police equipment to smooth out voltage fluctuations as, say, the air horns compressor was switched on. That sudden voltage drop was alleged to affec...

Mick,
Turn the key, clockwise I think, and push it in whilst wiggling the bars on full left lock.
After the lock has engaged with a slot in the steering stem, remove the key.

To unlock, insert the key and turn anti-clockwise, allowing the spring to push the lock body out again.

R.

Interpol2471 wrote: ↑Sun May 19, 2019 11:18 pm Did it sell ?
There is another on eBay now but that is a super rare IP2 1 of only 100 ever made with yamaha forks

Did I miss that one, as I don't see it today - just a fairly standard IP2 at Pontefract?

I presume it's 1010, on the market yet again.
R.

Hi Zed,
They were made by S&B, direct copies of K&N at half the price.
I have no record of the part numbers though.
R.

Yer 'tis, alongside the fan switch and above the sender for the temperature gauge.

Pete, Without the retard box, it will run perfectly OK at engine speeds over about 1200 rpm, but will not idle smoothly below that. For general road riding, that's not a problem, but if you spend much of your time creeping along in traffic, you may find the engine temperature starts to rise. You may...

Pete, Before paying out for a new retard box, I suggest you first see if it runs on the Sparkrite. If not, then the MiniMagneto system is the one to go for. It uses the same trigger, but needs conventional Lucas-type ignition coils in place of the original CDI ones. I don't think AN have any thermoc...

Hi Pete, Yours is almost certainly twin rotor idle as most of the singles were factory-converted to twin. That you have a temperature switch on the r/h housing is confirmation as that wasn't fitted to singles. The blanked-off pipes are main bearing oil scavenge connections that were discarded on lat...

An ex-West Midlands bike, B950***, originally based at Coventry. Engine rebuild at 2k, engine/gearbox at 12k, engine rebuild at 24k, nothing else in the Shenstone service records. It may subsequently have had a service exchange engine fitted, stamped 'SX----' and not recorded in the factory records....

Hi,
If you can tell me the frame number, I can see from my factory and personal records if there's any history for it.
R.

Terry, For the rotor housing joint faces, use a thin smear of Wellseal. Stationary gear O-rings, use high temp RTV, Loctite 5368 or similar. All other joint faces, use 5368 or similar. Both eccentric shaft nuts; Loctite 270, 150 lb.ft. Clutch nut; 270, 100lb.ft. Orange RTV is almost as bad as the Re...

"A picture's worth a thousand words....." Fear not -that's normal. It's just discoloration by the pre-treatment and plating fluids. The joint face shows clean aluminium as it was ground to size after the plating process was completed. All other machined faces are completed before plating a...

How about a photo?
Depending on the age of your IP2, the coating was probably done by BAJ Coatings (now defunct) at Weston super Mare. One of their chemical dips left a dark grey finish to the un-machined areas.
R.

Hi, Welcome to the forum. Are you sure the surface you're seeing isn't the original silver powder coating that's gone hard and yellow with age? Try scratching the side of an outside fin to see if that's so. Usually, industrial strippers such as Thyssen Krupp in Tamworth get down to bare metal, no pr...

Hi Terry, The pad is that size 'cos it's a close replica of those fitted to the JPS race bikes of the time. Other comments about it were along the lines of "Make it uncomfortable so the rider goes faster to get to the end of the race first". Seemed to work anyway! For one of the Rugeley tw...

Tony,
Lookin' good!
Thirty years old design and still a modern touring bike.
R.

Terry, To the best of my knowledge, all of the non-Grey colours were not specific to any make/model of other vehicle. Over the production period, several different paint shops were used so it's quite possible that that one's Candy Red was not quite the same as another's. For a non-rotary project, I ...

Sorry, there are none! But, the vertical axis of the engine is the line between eccentric shaft and the bottom stud. TDC is when the flywheel key is at either 9 o'clock to that line for the l/h rotor or 3 o'clock for the other. Full advance timing, although not critical, is alleged to be at 18 BTDC,...

Terry, Whilst Jaguar Dorchester Grey was the standard colour, there were quite a few that were painted other colours and about six that were polished white self-colour mouldings like the police machines. The Candy Red ones tended to fade to a gold colour in strong sunlight, but the ones in metallic ...

You may be thinking of the prototype numbered PP001 which was used, amongst other things, the brochure photos.
It had a slab-sided tank and a very thin seat.
Now in a rotary enthusiast's private collection in Germany.
R

There are two air-cooled Norton rotaries in the Mecum catalogue. One, as above, is a converted IP2 described as a 'Classic' but bearing little resemblance to a genuine Norton Classic. Badly done too. But, there is also, according to the description as there's no photograph, genuine Classic LE001. Th...

With the 10 ohm caps, you can then use copper cored HT lead instead of the usual resistive cable.
R.

Following the man-who-knows (Julian Kemp), I bought a pair of 10 ohm straight caps from France via Ebay.
Reference is NGK SD10F, still available from France at £4.95 each.
R.

Tch, tch! Bronze plate first and the last plate against the alloy pressure plate should be steel.
R.

There are two popular types of oil seal, known as R21 and R23. R21 is the standard type of seal, single sealing lip with a garter spring on the inner oily side. R23 is an option that has the sealing lip as above and also has a second wiper lip on the other dry, or outer, side. The purpose of the sec...

John,
The spring always faces the more oily side, in this case towards the mainshaft bearing.
Your original seal would have had a spring, perhaps it became dislodged and lost when removing the seal from the gearbox plate.
R.

John,
If the key is loose, smack the radiused edge with a hammer (gently) to deform it so that it's tight in the groove.
Keyway anywhere between 9 and 12 o'clock makes it easier to watch on assembly.
Patience is a virtue!
R.

Now....if you could just recommend a fix for the rattling front forks....... cry Mick. Mick, As a Saab dealer once said to me about a noisy gearbox, "Yes Sir, they all do that" Doug Hele came up with a fix using shims to reduce movement of the damper piston and reduce the rattle. AN may s...

There's never been a gasket there, so your sealant of choice.
ThreeBond, aka Yamabond, or RTV silicone works for me.
There's an O-ring where the elbows join to the frame; a smear of RTV there doesn't come amiss.
R.